This is my last blog entry here. Please continue to enjoy the build on this page:
www.blog.suzuki-katana.com
www.blog.suzuki-katana.com
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Thursday, March 31, 2011
PREP AND PAINT
Today was spent preping and painting parts. Not much polish or bare alum on this project.
GLOSS BLACK: pegs, wheels, brake pedal, shifter, brake pivot, gsxr rear master, brake hanger, hub, Semi Gloss Black, under seat pan, bat box, surge tank, on and on. Took some pics tonight but they don't look 1/2 as good as the bike looks. Need some daylight. Also need some blacker black. NOt sure if I am happy with the T1 Plasticoat gloss black. Looks a little brown to me compared to the swingarm.
Cust some stainless steel spacers for the rear wheel and polished them for some contrast in the sea of black back there. I think I am going to change the color of the under seat pan as well. Pegs took some time to take apart clean, sand, paint, sand, paint, polish the pins, paint again.
I have to start the wheels shortly so I can get the tires mounted, as well as the forks. Painting them gloss black too. Basically everything south of the cosmetics will be a mixture of gloss, semi gloss black with touches of polish and alum.
GLOSS BLACK: pegs, wheels, brake pedal, shifter, brake pivot, gsxr rear master, brake hanger, hub, Semi Gloss Black, under seat pan, bat box, surge tank, on and on. Took some pics tonight but they don't look 1/2 as good as the bike looks. Need some daylight. Also need some blacker black. NOt sure if I am happy with the T1 Plasticoat gloss black. Looks a little brown to me compared to the swingarm.
Cust some stainless steel spacers for the rear wheel and polished them for some contrast in the sea of black back there. I think I am going to change the color of the under seat pan as well. Pegs took some time to take apart clean, sand, paint, sand, paint, polish the pins, paint again.
I have to start the wheels shortly so I can get the tires mounted, as well as the forks. Painting them gloss black too. Basically everything south of the cosmetics will be a mixture of gloss, semi gloss black with touches of polish and alum.
Wednesday, March 30, 2011
POWDER COATING KATANA FRAME
For those who have never powder coated a frame here is the run down.
It is always a good idea to protect all the threads in the frame with bolts. Bolts you won't want to be using later. That way when the frame is media blasted, the threads are not blasted too as well as, they don't fill up with media. If media gets into holes with threads in them it is a bit of a deal digging it out.
If you thread a bolt into said hole there is a good chance it will cease and brake off while you are trying to tighten it up. If some threads are blasted you can "chase" them with a tap. That will clean them up and they will be good to go.
Next, Powder is thick. Some things may not fit after powder. For a katana guy things like the rear brake pedal pivot bolt. IF powder gets into the boss, the shaft may not fit anymore. Same goes for the shifter pivot on the frame and the kick stand mount. Things like peg pins or bolts may no longer fit. Just ask the powder dude to tape off the shifter pivot and the inside of the brake pivot, or you may be doing a little sanding later.
leave the old steering stem races in place and replace them after the frame is done. If you do wheels, for goodness sake take out the bearings before. Sounds stupid but I know of guys who mounted wheels with media filled bearings because they were too lazy or too cheap to replace them. Bearings and grit do not play well together.
IF you are thinking of doubling down and doing some bolts with the frame, after all they are there anyway remember this. Allen head (socket head) bolts may be hard to get out with the allen key as the hole will be much smaller with powder in there. Hex bolts will not longer fit your wrench. Did I mention powder is thick?
I had all my stainless steel gound points taped off so they would be clean after powder. Powder dude saw fit to remove all the tape and powdered all of them but one for some reason so, I spent some time filing off the powder.
See you tomorrow.
It is always a good idea to protect all the threads in the frame with bolts. Bolts you won't want to be using later. That way when the frame is media blasted, the threads are not blasted too as well as, they don't fill up with media. If media gets into holes with threads in them it is a bit of a deal digging it out.
If you thread a bolt into said hole there is a good chance it will cease and brake off while you are trying to tighten it up. If some threads are blasted you can "chase" them with a tap. That will clean them up and they will be good to go.
Next, Powder is thick. Some things may not fit after powder. For a katana guy things like the rear brake pedal pivot bolt. IF powder gets into the boss, the shaft may not fit anymore. Same goes for the shifter pivot on the frame and the kick stand mount. Things like peg pins or bolts may no longer fit. Just ask the powder dude to tape off the shifter pivot and the inside of the brake pivot, or you may be doing a little sanding later.
leave the old steering stem races in place and replace them after the frame is done. If you do wheels, for goodness sake take out the bearings before. Sounds stupid but I know of guys who mounted wheels with media filled bearings because they were too lazy or too cheap to replace them. Bearings and grit do not play well together.
IF you are thinking of doubling down and doing some bolts with the frame, after all they are there anyway remember this. Allen head (socket head) bolts may be hard to get out with the allen key as the hole will be much smaller with powder in there. Hex bolts will not longer fit your wrench. Did I mention powder is thick?
I had all my stainless steel gound points taped off so they would be clean after powder. Powder dude saw fit to remove all the tape and powdered all of them but one for some reason so, I spent some time filing off the powder.
See you tomorrow.
Monday, March 28, 2011
GS POP UP FUEL CAP
I have never loved the gas cap on these bikes and I hate digging for keys at the pump. Especially when I don't have an ignition key. So, the only thing I have to do now is get rid of seat key....HHmmmmnnmmm??? next season maybe.
Looked at different options, the first one was the obvious one and go with a aircraft style, but, that's pretty boring, every bike has one. I also didn't want to ruin the look of the tank by moving the cap ot the center.
So I went with a pop up cap. Gloss black to match the black the tank will be on top. Nice and flush, low profile and sleek. It will be an excellent match for my paint scheme.
May not be everyones cup of tea, but I like it.
Looked at different options, the first one was the obvious one and go with a aircraft style, but, that's pretty boring, every bike has one. I also didn't want to ruin the look of the tank by moving the cap ot the center.
So I went with a pop up cap. Gloss black to match the black the tank will be on top. Nice and flush, low profile and sleek. It will be an excellent match for my paint scheme.
May not be everyones cup of tea, but I like it.
KATANA FRAME AND BANDIT SWING ARM
Thought the frame was ready for powder but decided to weld in some new front coil mounts to better fit the dyna coils. Done now, all stripped and theads protected. Off to powder she goes in the next day or two.
On to other things.
Here is the swingarm. I buried my oil catch can in the shock hole. Welded a plate over the hole and sandwiched the plate with the upper and lower pieces of the catch can. Now, its out of the way and clears the fuel pump on susupension compression.
Those aren't the fittings I will be using in final build. I am using one for crank case vent (valve cover) and the other for crank breather coming from clutch cover. Center top will hose into a filter. I will be safety wiring the can on for precausion.
Decided to weld on the extensions as well. Don't like the idea of my life depending on 4 screws.
On to other things.
Here is the swingarm. I buried my oil catch can in the shock hole. Welded a plate over the hole and sandwiched the plate with the upper and lower pieces of the catch can. Now, its out of the way and clears the fuel pump on susupension compression.
Those aren't the fittings I will be using in final build. I am using one for crank case vent (valve cover) and the other for crank breather coming from clutch cover. Center top will hose into a filter. I will be safety wiring the can on for precausion.
Decided to weld on the extensions as well. Don't like the idea of my life depending on 4 screws.
FINISHING UP THE KATANA FRAME
Well, the last of the frame work is done and ready for powder.
Since grounding is so important and I have lots of electrics on the beast I thought it might be prudent to make sure there were some sound ground points on the bike.
I used stainless steel that will not be getting powdered. I have them taped off so grounding will not be an issue with this bike. There is a tab in the tail, under the seat, by the tank (for the wiring harness ground point) and up front under the fairing. WHy? my clocks need a ground, EFI, and on and on.
Next I had to reposition the rear brake return spring location
Lastly, since there are no more katana headers to be had, I thought it may be a good idea to have a mounting point for the 1100e headers that are still available. I machined and tapped a rod and welded it into the peg stay. That way I can bolt up any kind of braket between it and the rear exhaust mounting hole for any number of configurations.
One more final check for frame true and rear wheel alignment while I am at it.
Since grounding is so important and I have lots of electrics on the beast I thought it might be prudent to make sure there were some sound ground points on the bike.
I used stainless steel that will not be getting powdered. I have them taped off so grounding will not be an issue with this bike. There is a tab in the tail, under the seat, by the tank (for the wiring harness ground point) and up front under the fairing. WHy? my clocks need a ground, EFI, and on and on.
Next I had to reposition the rear brake return spring location
Lastly, since there are no more katana headers to be had, I thought it may be a good idea to have a mounting point for the 1100e headers that are still available. I machined and tapped a rod and welded it into the peg stay. That way I can bolt up any kind of braket between it and the rear exhaust mounting hole for any number of configurations.
One more final check for frame true and rear wheel alignment while I am at it.
KATANA LOW FUEL WARNING / FUEL RETURN EFI
Today I worked on the mock up tank. Located the return line and low fuel warning.
I am using a thermistor unit out of an SV650. For those who don't know what they are since gs1100 and katana don't have them, they work on resistance. When submerged in fuel they are cold and have a high resistance. When they become exposed to the air as the fuel leve drops, they heat up and that decreases their resistance allowing current to flow. When this happens, the low fuel light comes on.
This unit has two, so I have low fuel and critically low fuel lights. My plan is to use on solid burning low light and for critical level, I will use a flashing light.
The conductivity is for the ground wire, not the hot so there is not chance of shorting in the fuel which would ruin your day.
I am fabbing the return out of a 3/8" npt 90 degree fitting with a 7" hollow tube.
The thermistor unit I chose because the first low fuel indicator is very close to where the stock katana level is when you need to turn to reserve. The second thermistor is the kick in the pants warning.
I am using a thermistor unit out of an SV650. For those who don't know what they are since gs1100 and katana don't have them, they work on resistance. When submerged in fuel they are cold and have a high resistance. When they become exposed to the air as the fuel leve drops, they heat up and that decreases their resistance allowing current to flow. When this happens, the low fuel light comes on.
This unit has two, so I have low fuel and critically low fuel lights. My plan is to use on solid burning low light and for critical level, I will use a flashing light.
The conductivity is for the ground wire, not the hot so there is not chance of shorting in the fuel which would ruin your day.
I am fabbing the return out of a 3/8" npt 90 degree fitting with a 7" hollow tube.
The thermistor unit I chose because the first low fuel indicator is very close to where the stock katana level is when you need to turn to reserve. The second thermistor is the kick in the pants warning.
Sunday, March 27, 2011
FUEL RAIL
Drilled and tapped the fuel rail. By using end fittings I would have to carve up the side covers so I am using plugs there. Keeps things cleaner. Installed the vac lines, a vacuum block and the map sensor. Getting busy under there. Still have fuel feed line, return line and air bleed line from the fuel pump.
Also have to fab a fuel return to the tank along with a thermistor low fuel warning system.
Also have to fab a fuel return to the tank along with a thermistor low fuel warning system.
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